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LA GRAMMATICA DI ENGLISH GRATIS IN VERSIONE MOBILE   INFORMATIVA PRIVACY

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WIKIBOOKS
DISPONIBILI
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ART
- Great Painters
BUSINESS&LAW
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TRADITIONS
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NATURE
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ARTICLES IN THE BOOK

  1. Academy Award for Makeup
  2. Aloe
  3. Alpha hydroxy acid
  4. Anti-aging cream
  5. Arenation
  6. Aromatherapy
  7. Artistry
  8. Astringent
  9. Beauty
  10. Beauty mark
  11. Beauty salon
  12. Camouflage Cosmetic
  13. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
  14. Carnauba wax
  15. Castor oil
  16. Chanel No. 5
  17. Chemical peel
  18. Christian Dior
  19. Clinique
  20. Concealer
  21. Corpse paint
  22. Cosmeceutical
  23. Cosmetic advertising
  24. Cosmetics
  25. Cosmetology
  26. Creed
  27. Dermabrasion
  28. Dermatology
  29. Destination spa
  30. Eau de cologne
  31. Electrology
  32. Elizabeth Arden
  33. Essential oil
  34. Estée Lauder
  35. Estée Lauder Companies
  36. Estée Lauder pleasures
  37. Exfoliation
  38. Eye liner
  39. Eyeshadow
  40. Facial toning
  41. Glitter
  42. Glycerol
  43. Guerlain
  44. Hair
  45. Hair extension
  46. Helena Rubinstein
  47. Hermès
  48. History of cosmetics
  49. History of Perfume
  50. Hot tub
  51. INCI
  52. Jojoba oil
  53. Kohl
  54. Lancome
  55. Lip gloss
  56. Lip plumper
  57. Lipstick
  58. List of cosmetic ingredients
  59. L'Oréal
  60. Makeover
  61. Make-up artist
  62. Manicure
  63. Mascara
  64. Max Factor
  65. Max Factor, Sr.
  66. Maybelline
  67. Microdermabrasion
  68. Nail polish
  69. Natural skin care
  70. Noxzema
  71. Olay
  72. Pedicure
  73. Perfume
  74. Perfume bottles
  75. Permanent makeup
  76. Permanent wave
  77. Plastic surgeons
  78. Retinol
  79. Revlon
  80. Rimmel
  81. Rouge
  82. Shampoo
  83. Shaving
  84. Shaving cream
  85. Shea butter
  86. Shiseido
  87. Shower gel
  88. Skin Deep
  89. Skin whitening
  90. Soap
  91. Sunless tanning
  92. Sun tanning
  93. Surfactant
  94. Talcum powder
  95. Tanning bed
  96. Tanning lamp
  97. Thanaka
  98. The Body Shop
  99. Waxing
  100. Wella
  101. What Not to Wear

 


 

 
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    ENGLISHGRATIS.COM è un sito personale di
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    email: robertocasiraghi at iol punto it

    Roberto Casiraghi           
    INFORMATIVA SULLA PRIVACY              Crystal Jones


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COSMETICS
This article is from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permanent_wave

All text is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_the_GNU_Free_Documentation_License 

Permanent wave

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 
Turn of the century advertisement for Nessler's permanent wave machine.
Turn of the century advertisement for Nessler's permanent wave machine.
Permanent wave machine invented in 1928 by Marjorie Joyner - The first African American woman to receive a patent
Permanent wave machine invented in 1928 by Marjorie Joyner - The first African American woman to receive a patent

A permanent wave, commonly called a perm, is the chemical treatment of hair to produce curls. In cosmetology, it is termed a type of curl reformation. Humans have been attempting to add curl to straight hair for thousands of years. The ancient Egyptians did this by wrapping their hair around wooden sticks; slathering it with mud from hot springs; letting it bake dry in the sun and then removing the mud. Presumably the mud had an alkaline chemical makeup that helped to set the curls.

History

The first chemical treatment for curling hair that was suitable for use on people was invented in the year 1906 by the German hairdresser Karl Nessler (1872-1951). The first public demonstration took place on October 8, 1906, but Nessler had been working on the idea since 1896. Previously, wigs had been set with caustic chemicals to form curls, but these recipes were too harsh to use on human skin. His method, called the spiral heat method, was only useful for long hair. The hair was wrapped in a spiral around rods connected to a machine with an electric heating device. Sodium hydroxide, a strong alkali, was applied and the hair was heated (212°F; 100°C or more) for an extended period of time. The process used about twelve, two-pound brass rollers and took six hours to complete. These hot rollers were kept from touching the scalp by a complex system of countering weights which were suspended from an overhead chandelier and mounted on a stand. His first experiments were conducted on his wife, Katharina Laible. The first two attempts resulted in completely burning her hair off and some scalp burns, but the method was perfected and his electric permanent wave machine was patented in London in 1909. It subsequently went into widespread use.

Nessler had moved to London in 1901, and during World War I, the British jailed Nessler because he was German and forced him to surrender his assets. He escaped to New York City in 1915, buying passage on a steamship under an assumed name. In New York, he found that hundreds of copies of his machine were in use, but most did not work well and were unreliable. Nessler opened a shop on East 49th St., and soon had salons in Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach, Florida and Philadelphia. Nessler also developed a machine for home use that was sold for fifteen dollars.

After World War I, short hair came into vogue. Because Nessler's method wrapped the hair in a spiral along the rods, it couldn't be used with short hair and alternate systems began to be developed. The croquignole method, where the hair is wrapped straight up the rod from the ends to the scalp, was invented in 1924 by a Czech hairdresser, Josef Mayer. It quickly became popular because it could be used with many different lengths of hair. Also during this time, a machineless method that applied preheated clamps over the wrapped rods was invented, but it still used the strong alkali solution.

In 1931, at the Midwest Beauty Show in Chicago, Ralph I. Evans and Everett G. McDonough showed a heatless system for the first time. Their method used bi-sulphide solution and was often applied at the salon, left on while the client went home and removed the next day, leading it to be called the overnight wave.

While the later methods were improvements on the original, all of those mentioned above used very strong alkali solution, tight wrapping, long developing times and more often than not caused hair damage and scalp burns.

Modern perms

In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion was applied ammonium thioglycolate. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure) in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an acid neutralizer lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide), to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6-8 hours at room temperature.

Perms today use this method with sodium thioglycolate instead of ammonium thioglycolate, at a pH of 8 to 9.5. This method takes only 15-30 minutes until the neutralizer is applied to bring down the pH and rebond the hair.

In the 1970s, acid perms were invented. These use glycerol monothioglycolate instead and contain no ammonia. They are sometimes called buffered waves. This perm is slower but gentler to the hair. Heat is usually added by placing the client under a dryer, after covering the wrapped head with a plastic cap. The reaction is endothermic and the additional heat causes the pH to rise from 6.9 to 7.2.

Other types of modern perms include exothermic perms, which are self timing and self heating; and neutral, or low pH, thioglycolate free perms.

The permanent relaxer straightens the hair instead of curling it. The same chemical methods can be used for this, but the hair is not wrapped around rods. This process is commonly used by African-Americans and others with naturally curly hair.

Technical considerations

There are two parts to a perm, the physical action of wrapping the hair, and the chemical phase. Both of these can affect the result. Important physical variables in are what type of rod is used, how the hair is wrapped and how end papers are used. The two most common types of rods are straight and concave; each giving a different curl effect. The wrapping method is either spiral or croquinole, and various types and positionings of end papers can be used with any combination of the above. Generally, smaller rods will produce smaller, tighter curls and increase the appearance of shortening the hair.

The chemical solution used in the perming process is determined by the client's hair type and the pH of the solution. Classic alkaline perms are used for stronger, coarser hair. They work at room temperature and usually contain ammonium thioglycolate in the pH range of 9-10. Acid perms are used on more delicate or thinner hair. They require outside heat application and usually contain glycerol monothioglycolate in the pH range of 6.5-8.2.

Safety considerations

Due to the harsh nature of the chemicals, it is important that contact with the skin be minimized. Modern chemicals are less irritating, but measures should still be taken to reduce contact with anything other than hair.

A poorly performed permanent wave will result in breakage of the disulfide bonds through chemical reduction, because it fails to fix the newly formed bonds. This results in hair that is no longer elastic and flexible, but brittle and fragile. At this point, even combing the hair will result in hair loss. The hair shafts will experience fracture where they exit the scalp. Because the bulb of hair has not been removed though, the hair follicle is not damaged and the hair will regrow; however, the temporary hair loss may be distressing.

Home perms

A number of brands of home permanent kits are available, but their numbers have decreased as permanent waves are not as popular as they were in the 1980s. The first popular home permanent was the Toni brand. The Toni company used a set of twins to advertise their products — one with a salon perm and one with the home perm. Another brand that was a household name in Britain in the late 1960s and 1970s was Twink.

References

  • Karl L. Nessler. Retrieved on 2006-07-24.
  • (2004) Salon Fundamentals: A resource for your cosmetology career. Evanston, IL: Pivot Point International. ISBN 0-615-11288-9. 

External links

  • Pictures of Nessler's permanent curling machine
  • Disulphide bonds in hair
  • The chemistry of a permanent wave
  • Old advertisement for Toni brand perm
  • Getting a perm in 1950 (demonstration)
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permanent_wave"